Evaluate: Cookoovaya, Athens, Greece

“Cookoovaya” (κουκουβάγια), which suggests “owl” in Greek, is depicted on this restaurant’s brand, which options the eyes and beak of an owl. In Athens‘ historical and vibrant Pangrati neighbourhood, the logo features prominently on a sign outside this Michelin Guide restaurant, with the words ‘Wise Cuisine’ under. The owl is the sacred chicken of the goddess Athena and an emblem of town of Athens. It’s an emblem of knowledge and information in Greek tradition that’s mirrored within the restaurant’s culinary excellence and considerate, inventive cooking.

We’re welcomed on arrival at a up to date reception space set in opposition to a hanging floor-to-ceiling wine fridge. This spectacular show is so tall {that a} ladder is required to succeed in the uppermost bottles.

The opening web page on Cookovaya’s menu is titled ‘Apheresis’ which is central to the restaurant’s culinary philosophy, emphasising conventional strategies that extract and spotlight pure high quality and flavours. There’s a dedication right here to showcase Greece’s most interesting components from each land and sea, utilising each a part of these components, from “nose-to-tail” and “root-to-stalk”.

The meals

We had been invited to select from the à la carte menu or go for the Chef’s suggestions. We selected the latter, with the one caveat being that considered one of us was pescatarian. This turned out to be an excellent transfer as we totally loved quite a lot of dishes we would not have in any other case chosen.

We started with the flavourful dorade royale carpaccio which was accompanied with wild fennel pollen, yuzu kosho and lemon zest. The skinny slices of this fish, additionally konwn as gilt-head bream, had a fragile sweetness and a scrumptious, nearly barely nutty style.

After which the dishes saved flowing, with the native purple prawns, scallops, avocado, chilli, lime and coriander being significantly palate-pleasing.

After all, no Greek meal could be full with out a Greek salad and this one didn’t disappoint, not least as a result of the accompanying feta – which is sourced from the Arkadia area within the central Peloponnese space – had nearly no getting old, much less salt, and a a lot softer and silkier texture than regular feta.

Anybody accustomed to Greek delicacies may also be accustomed to spanakopita (σπανακόπιτα) – Cookoovaya does a beautiful “marathopitta” which is a grilled wild fennel pie with a wild mint yogurt within the centre.

For me, the stand-out dish was the scallops sitting on a purée of smoked eggplant and jalapeño – it was so succulent and nonetheless makes my mouth water once I reminisce about it!

We additionally loved the octopus on grilled bread with fava and tomatoes…

…and the tarama made with white fish roe, olive oil and lemon juice, served with a crispy phyllo bread that’s made with out yeast. 

A aspect dish of spring beaans steamed with grated heirloom tomato, further virgin olive oil, aged vinegar and contemporary garlic, plus a plate of grilled Ambracian prawns with olive oil, lemon and oregano blossom (from the Ambracian Gulf on the northwest coast of Greece, and identified for his or her high quality) had been additional examples of how easy cooking strategies can obtain distinctive outcomes.

Our principal course – the catch of the day in a Bianco recipe, historically cooked with garlic, olive oil and lemon, together with potatoes – was introduced to us earlier than being de-boned and served at our desk.

This was a hearty and comforting dish and the fish (grouper) was surpisingly ‘meaty’, scrumptious and filling.

By this time, we had been actually greater than happy, nevertheless it was nearly insisted that we strive the bougatsa – a crunchy phyllo, vanilla cream and cinnamon ice cream which was displayed in all its glory.

It seemed huge however we had been assured it was a lot greater than it appeared, earlier than it was crushed earlier than us on the desk previous to serving.

A pear tarte tatin with butterscotch and vanilla ice cream was additionally totally loved.

The chef

Chef proprietor Periklis Koskinas, who comes from Corfu, is considered one of Greece’s most well-travelled cooks, having labored within the UK, Canaries, Venezuela, USA, Canada and, after all, Greece. He believes in simplicity in cooking, utilizing seasonal and native produce. He opened Cookoovaya in late 2014 with 5 different esteemed Greek cooks – for the previous three years, it has been below his sole command. Greece’s culinary traditions stay on the core of his menu, as do Greek values, regional produce and Greek hospitality.

The atmosphere

On the time of our go to, this air-conditioned restaurant had a energetic buzz about it. Tables are effectively spaced and the ceiling excessive, so it was not too noisy regardless of most tables being occupied, and some spilling over to dine exterior. The service may be very pleasant and attentive with out being bothersome, and the ambiance very relaxed. Since we had been seated within the entrance portion of the restaurant, it wasn’t till I went across the nook to go to the restroom that I noticed there may be additionally a totally open plan kitchen the place you may see all of the culinary magic occur.

The associated fee

Appetisers are within the area of €10 to €25. Mains begin from €30 (for the lamb chops, tzatziki, French fries and wild oregano). There are additionally two “Wise Tasting Menus”, priced at €75 or €85 per individual. Desserts are sometimes across the €10 mark.

The ultimate verdict

Now celebrating its tenth 12 months, Cookoovaya continues with its dedication to simplicity and knowledge in cooking (therefore the owl once more), delivering dishes that commemorate the essence of Greek delicacies by meticulous preparation and respect for custom. Diners may additionally discover that even the plates are subtly branded with the phrases “270 degrees” and a line that equates to 3 quarters of a circle, representing the entire variety of levels that an owl can rotate its head. It’s these sorts of particulars that exhibit the restaurant’s consideration to element and underscore its dedication to incorporating knowledge into each facet of the eating expertise.

Disclosure: This submit is sponsored by Cookoovaya.